We woke up to a wonderful sun, in that corner between wheat and forest where we had slept like kings. Not a soul. Not a sound. Well, except for my explorer paws on the wet grass. As the day looked good and there were no loose screws to tighten, we took it very easy. No DIY, no rags, no vacuum cleaner: a perfect morning!

Around eleven o'clock, with the elegance of those who are not in a hurry, we set off for Belfort on departmental roads that crossed green fields and gentle hills. About an hour's drive, just right for a doggy nap.

We parked directly inside the fortress. Yes, inside. As if we were noble guests and not travellers with a battle camper van. The citadel is immense and seems designed by someone who loved mazes. We went up to the ramparts, passed towers, ramps, tunnels... and reached a panoramic terrace with a French flag and views that would make a greyhound with vertigo salivate.

Then we went down to look for the famous lion of Belfort, the one that everyone wants to see. It's huge, made of reddish stone, and looks half asleep, but in a "don't touch me or I'll tear the province apart" kind of way. It was sculpted by the same guy who made the Statue of Liberty, but this one doesn't hold up torches, just eyebrows. We saw it from the side and from below. Getting closer required paying to enter a museum... and you know: museum equals boredom equals zero balls.

From there we went straight down to the old town. In five minutes we were in the Place d'Armes, which looked like something out of a film: terraces full (it was Friday and rush hour for French stomachs), colourful houses, an imposing town hall and even a stage being set up. They must be preparing a festival... or a medieval rave, who knows.

Daddy Edu went into the Saint-Christophe cathedral for a moment, and then we continued strolling through the narrow streets. We also found another smaller square with a fountain and statues. Everything very pretty and pleasant, although I was more concerned with whether anyone would drop a piece of croissant.

As Belfort is not Paris, we finished quickly and went back up to the fortress to retrieve our carriage (also known as our house on wheels). We left the city in search of a place to eat, and found it between a kind of motorway and a small lake. We ate quietly inside the camper, and then went out to stretch our legs.

The lake was very beautiful, yes, but it seemed to be managed by a killjoy committee. A huge sign announced that practically nothing could be done there. Swimming prohibited, of course. Barbecues prohibited, lighting fires on the ground, smoking, not even ice skating (in May!). No naturism, which is like saying that one can't even drop their swimming trunks. Motorised vehicles, boats, camping and caravanning, aeromodelling (not even a paper airplane!), alcohol, fishing without a licence and, of course, littering are prohibited. But it didn't end there. It was also forbidden to fly drones, uproot or take plants, introduce "exogenous" animals or plants (i.e. if you bring a plant from your house, they confiscate it). Dogs, with a compulsory leash, and if you are one of those category 2 or 3 dogs, also with a muzzle. They didn't look at me strangely, but just in case I put on a "I'm only here for the scenery" face. Anyway, in the end the lake looked more like a work of art to be looked at from afar than a place to enjoy the water. No swimming, no picnics, not even a paw dip... probably if I farted it was also on the list, only in small print. But hey, I think it was a water supply lake, hence all the paranoia.

After a while we decided to look for a quieter place to spend the night. In the end we arrived at another lake, this time the Lac de Michelbach, near a town where it seems that French is already losing ground to German. Here yes: ample parking, two more campers, a lake that is a reservoir, dirt roads, songbirds, and not a single sign of "prohibited to be happy".

Before dinner we took another walk around the lake. Everything very green, very humid, very quiet. And now we are all tucked in, with everything in its place and ready to sleep like logs after a Friday full of history, citadels, lions, lakes and angry signs.