This morning we took things slower than a snail with a hangover. Between breakfast, stretching, cloud-gazing (me) and grumbling (Papi Edu), the morning slipped away without us noticing. The other campers had all left, as if they had an urgent meeting at the summit of Ben Nevis. We, on the other hand, set off after one o'clock, nice and easy, in no particular hurry.

Our first destination was the famous Dunrobin Castle, which is between Golspie and fairytale clouds. We parked like champions in its car park, we approached... and boom: fifteen and a half quid a head to get in! And on top of that, no dogs allowed. Excuse me! A castle called Dunrobin that doesn't let a travelling Andalusian dog in, that's like an empanada without filling. So we turned around elegantly and changed plans.

We parked a little further down, between Golspie and the castle, where the Big Burn Walk trail begins. But before we launched ourselves into that adventure, we decided to do another more dog-friendly route: the coastal walk that leads to the castle. What a treat! A mile skirting the sea, with views of the castle from the outside, free and without canine censorship. From the coast you can see the pointed towers, the gardens and even some lost tourists. The sun was shining, the sea was sighing, and Chuly was trotting.

We went back to the car by another little path and now: Big Burn Walk! Which isn't a giant burger burn or a fitness app, but a charming path through forest, moss, little bridges and a very friendly stream. It took us about an hour round trip, at a lovely pace. It's not a movie landscape, but it has its charm and it's fresh. In other words, approved with applause.

Afterwards, we went to see a mysterious point on the map. Papi didn't remember what exactly it was, but when we arrived... surprise! A wild beach, without a promenade or a beach bar, but with fine sand, gentle waves and a glorious sign that warned in English:

"If nudity offends you, please do not proceed".

Ahem! Don't panic! We stayed for a while, in the sun, au naturel. No further details, as the important thing here is that I played in the sand as if there was no tomorrow. Sometimes I got so excited that I threw sand at Papi Edu without meaning to, but he disguised it with squinting smiles and lots of "That's enough, Chuly!". The usual. We were there for about an hour, until a big cloud got jealous of the sun and covered it all, so we decided to move the camp.

Heading to Helmsdale, where we made a high-level logistical stop. In the harbour there was a tap with drinking water without a padlock or payment, which in Scotland is almost rarer than a unicorn. We filled the tanks, and I drank directly, like a good professional taster.

From there, it was time to find a place to sleep. The A9 isn't exactly overflowing with cool places, but we found one we liked: the Ousdale Broch car park, a place with a sad history.

Because, yes, I'll tell you: Ousdale is one of the "clearance sites", places where centuries ago entire families were kicked out of their homes, their houses were burned and they were forced to leave so that the landowners could have more sheep. That's how beautiful the subject was. The "Highland Clearances" were very hard moments in Scottish history. Today, only ruins and a silence that weighs remain.

In the car park there's no one else, just an excavator parked as if it too had wanted to leave and wasn't allowed. It's quiet, with good views and an air of respect.

We're going to sleep here. Without castles, but with history. Without tourists, but with soul. And with a Papi Edu who is getting less and less flu-like. Let's see if tomorrow he's ready for more adventures!