Day 79: Duntulm - Fairy Pools

The night was so peaceful that I don't know if I slept or turned into mossy stone. At a more or less decent hour (that is, after daddy Edu had his second coffee), we set off north... and five minutes later we had arrived. Yes, five. Chronicle of a short stage.

We parked near Duntulm Castle, which is more of an archaeological summary of the wind than a castle: there are some ruins clinging to the edge of the cliff, with views that deserve kings even though there are no walls left to protect them. From there we saw something much nobler than any noble: a group of seals sunbathing. There was one floating peacefully in the sea and others lying on a large rock on the coast. It seemed like a free buffet of sardines to me, but Daddy reminded me that I shouldn't get involved in international politics between species.

Back south, we passed by our overnight spot and stopped at the Skye Museum of Island Life. We paid the entrance fee (seven pounds fifty) and, the best part: I could go in! What a joy, although of course, there wasn't a single bone or croquette on display.

The museum is a set of stone houses with thatched roofs, decorated inside as if someone's very cold-resistant grandmother still lived there. There's a weaver's house, another with blacksmith's tools, and a couple of rooms that smell like real antique furniture. It's pretty and well-preserved, but everything is so compact that we had seen it all in half an hour. Daddy Edu muttered something about the Highland Folk Museum (the one we saw a few weeks ago) and value for money, but I'm not going to repeat it because this is a family blog.

From there, another glorious advance: thirteen kilometers in twenty-five minutes! Thanks to the famous "single file roads with passing places", which is an elegant way of saying that you pray every time someone comes from the opposite direction.

We parked at the Fairy Glen, a place with the name of a green dishwasher but shaped like a fairytale model. There are rounded hills, mounds that look like magic spirals, and even stones placed in circles by humans aspiring to be gnomes. There were a lot of people, more than at a hobbit convention. But despite the crowds, the place retains a mysterious air. And I was the king of the place: I didn't take a step without someone stroking my head, telling me how handsome I am or taking a photo of me. Normal, I have the charisma of an elf and the elegance of an experienced gnome.

Afterwards, back to the car for a longer journey, mostly on single-track roads. Daddy Edu kept his cool, or he disguised it well. We arrived at Neist Point, the westernmost point of Skye, where we parked for free (miracle!) and ate in the camper with views of the sea and the infinite.

Neist Point has a walk on the cliffs that seems designed by a nature documentary director. On the horizon, the white lighthouse stands out against the ocean. We went down the path to get closer to the lighthouse, which is very photogenic but closed tight. It looks a lot like the one at Mull of Galloway: same shape, same foghorn, same feeling of being at the edge of the world.

After the walk, it was time to go back up to the car park. I cheated and stayed in the shade of a wall while Daddy went up panting with the camera, the water and his dignity half intact.

Then, another long journey: more than fifty kilometers that took us a long hour. But it was worth it. We arrived at a car park near the Fairy Pools, free and almost bursting. There are at least fifteen campers and motorhomes, and also tents in the car park. But we were lucky and found a spot with good views of the sky. Of course, zero mobile coverage. We couldn't update the blog, or upload photos, or talk to uncle Joan. All very 19th century.

So Daddy Edu took the opportunity to do some DIY: he changed the steering wheel cover, with a satisfied handyman face although it took him more work than he had imagined and he had to leave it half done. I supervised from the bed, which is also my official control post. And here we are staying to sleep. Tomorrow I suppose we are going to see the Fairy Pools.