We left the place where we’d slept late, which in the end turned out to be quite a paradise. Yesterday evening, Papi Edu went into intensive cleaning mode and filled an entire bin bag with rubbish. It wasn't ours, of course, but someone had to do it. We carried it in the car until we found a skip. Job well done.

Today we did about 90 kilometres, quite fluidly along a toll-free motorway. Lots of traffic at the start, everything very urban, very close to Istanbul. But suddenly... a total change. Fewer buildings, more green. Nature at last.

We stopped at a campsite in Ormanya. Yes, a campsite. Nearly three years without setting foot in one, since Yerevan, and all of a sudden, we’re back. But this one has a trick: it’s free. Totally free. And the best part is that parking outside costs 150 lira, so inside here it works out cheaper than staying out there. Things you don't understand, but appreciate.

The place is very well set up. It’s not just a car park; there are toilets, showers and space for everything. About 23 pitches for campers and caravans and about 30 for tents. There are about 12 campers, all Turkish. The people are very nice, very relaxed. Good atmosphere.

After getting settled, we set off for Ormanya park, which is right next door. Everything seemed easy... until the security guard appeared. A very serious man, clearly trained to prevent the entry of terrorists, assassins with nuclear weapons, international spies... and dogs. I tried my best "I'm harmless" face, but nothing. Mission failed. So, it was time for Plan B. Papi Edu took me back to the camper and left me in charge while he went inside.

The park is enormous. Very big. It has natural areas, trails, observation areas and even animals. Not like a classic zoo, more like large spaces where you can see them from a certain distance. There are also viewpoints, picnic areas and plenty of forest.

But the most curious thing is the "hobbit village". Yes, literally. Tiny little wooden houses, like something out of a film, tucked away in the vegetation. Everything very well kept, very fantasy-like. Papi Edu spent almost an hour and a half wandering around there, until almost closing time.

Meanwhile, I was guarding the camper. All under control. No one entered, no one left, no threats detected. Security level: high.

When he got back, a quiet evening. Food-dinner at our "Nordic" time and not much else. The neighbours started lighting barbecues, one after another. Smoke here, smoke there... but the cold began to bite when the sun went down. So, we stayed inside, nice and warm. Much better.

A strange day: free campsite, no-dog park and hobbits thrown in. But hey, it has its charm.