Day 40: Linlithgow - Inverlauren

Last night we slept like little angels, although with our ears a little droopy from lack of sleep. But at least it was quality sleep. This morning we started early and went back to the Falkirk Wheel, which seems to be becoming our favorite Scottish amusement park. This time there were no miracles with the barrier: parking cost 4 pounds and you had to pay no matter what. The curious thing is that the payment machine was designed, apparently, for hobbits or dachshunds. Papi Edu had to get on his knees, literally, to see the screen. Behind him, a line of humans formed, discreetly laughing while he struggled with the machine. I, meanwhile, was inspecting whether anyone had left forgotten cookies in their pockets.

With Tito Joan back on the team, we saw the giant wheel again in all its splendor, this time working. A boat went down from the canal above to the pond, turning the structure as if it were a hamster wheel for boats. There were quite a few more people today, and although I'm not a big fan of crowds, I admit that the scene was pretty cool.

After that we went to visit our old friends, the Kelpies. Today we parked for free just 5 minutes walk more than the paid parking the other day. Not bad for a little extra exercise. The Kelpies, with the sun shining directly on them, looked like galactic horses. I told you a few days ago, but I remind you that they are 30-meter-high statues made of stainless steel, which represent the water spirits in the form of horses from Scottish legends. They are next to the canal and shine as if they had their own light. This time, with Tito Joan acting as the official photographer and many more people walking around, we took all the possible dog selfies.

Then we went back to the car and drove to Stirling. We parked for free (great) about twenty minutes walk from the castle. Before going up, we made a technical stop at the camper to eat. With full bellies and renewed energy, we went up to the castle along a path between cute houses and trees that looked wise. The castle, imposing on top of the hill, looked like a mixture of medieval fortress and film set. But we didn't go in. Why? First, because they don't let dogs in. Second, because it costs more than 20 pounds per person, which Papi Edu called "the robbery of the century". So we looked at it from the outside, which isn't bad either, and we went to explore the cemetery that is right next to it.

And what a cemetery. There are very old tombs, crooked tombstones with moss, stone angels looking at the sky and a viewpoint with views of the valley and the mountains that take your breath away. I don't know if the ghosts rest there, but if they do, they have a good place to do it.

After the funeral (but beautiful) walk, we looked for a bar to have a coffee. We entered a bistro where, as soon as we crossed the door, the waiter turned to me —yes, to me, not to Tito or Edu— and asked if I wanted water or treats. The treats, as always, I ignored them (what do they think, that I'm going to eat that without checking the ingredients?). But the bowl of water I accepted with dignity. Papi and Tito had some coffees with scones, jam and whipped cream that they almost needed a crane to get them down. I just watched while they licked their mustaches.

We took another walk through Stirling, which is a charming city with old houses, cobbled streets and a relaxed atmosphere. It looks like a place where you could get lost for a couple of days and always find something new: a viewpoint, a hidden church, a pub with live music or a park with hyperactive squirrels.

We went back to the car by another road and it was time to decide: where are we going now? After a mini travel assembly, we decided to explore the west of Scotland. We drove to the Loch Lomond area, but instead of stopping by the lake, we went to the countryside, to a wilder place. Pure nature. And no pee.

As the weather was good in the afternoon (miracle!), we took the opportunity to take a long walk along the country road that passed by there. Four kilometers between fields, trees, slow clouds and mysterious smells. I was in front, as always, sniffing the path with my nasal GPS.

Now we are already in the camper. We had dinner, we rested and, if nothing strange happens, tonight we will sleep like dormice in the middle of green Scotland. And if you hear any snoring, it's not me. It's Tito Joan.