Day 49: Laggan Dam - Loch Garten

In the morning it was raining, of course. I'm not even bothered by it anymore: I yawn, curl up, and keep dreaming of bouncy balls. But it cleared up a bit by midday, and we decided to go for a drive. Instead of continuing towards Loch Lochy (because the road was likely still closed for construction), we changed our plans and headed northeast, crossing the Cairngorms National Park again. It's an immense green space full of mountains, deer, and clouds that change their mood every five minutes.
After about an hour of driving, just as we were passing through Newtonmore, we saw a brown sign that said Highland Folk Museum. Papi Edu braked, turned, and said, "Let's check this out, it looks good." And he was right.
We parked in the museum lot. It only cost us two pounds because our camper cell doesn't look like a camper van. Ninja-level discretion! If we'd looked like an RV, it would have cost four. And entry to the museum is free; they just ask for a voluntary donation. The best part: I was allowed in because it's an open-air museum. There are paths through the woods, old houses, stables, turf huts, a hundred-year-old school, and even a smithy. I couldn't go into the enclosed buildings, but I didn't care: everything smelled of wood, peat, and centuries of stories.
We really liked it. It's like a trip back in time through the Highlands, with traditional houses from the 18th century to the mid-20th. The school has wooden desks with inkwells and slates, and some of the houses were decorated as if their owners had just stepped out for some bread. Very cool.
We left the museum around three. It was time to find a place to eat and rest, so we continued down a rural road where we saw lots of sheep... and a bull that gave us an unfriendly look. We found a super nice spot to park, next to a curve with a view of the endless green. Lunch, a nap, and some relaxation. I played with my ball, and Edu asked me a couple of deep questions: "Where are the keys?" and "Have you seen my glasses?"
Then we drove a little further north, heading towards Inverness. But we didn't make it. We turned off earlier towards a place called Loch Garten, right in the heart of the Abernethy Forest National Nature Reserve, a place where pines grow like skyscrapers and the ground smells of moss and mushrooms even when there aren't any. There, we found a charming parking area among the trees, around nine in the evening but still with light.
Just as we arrived, a park ranger came up to us. "What a wonderful vehicle you have!" he said. Papi Edu was very happy, of course. The ranger explained a couple of useful things: where the bathrooms were, what walks we could take from there, that the dog could be off-leash as long as he behaved, and other practical recommendations. The signs in the parking lot also said that, although overnight stays are allowed, we shouldn't do it if there are more than five vehicles, and we shouldn't post about it on social media. "Too many motorhomes are becoming a problem," the sign said.
That seemed like a very reasonable request. In fact, we were the first ones there. There was only one other car parked, and a small camper arrived later. Total peace. You could hear birds, the wind in the trees, and the buzzing of some insomniac mosquito.
Before going to sleep, we took a short walk to Loch Garten, which is about two hundred meters from the parking lot. The place is magical. The water is black like a mirror, reflecting the pines, with a fairy-tale silence. But be careful: you can't swim. A sign warns of the presence of toxic blue-green algae (also called cyanobacteria). These algae can be very dangerous for dogs like me, and also for humans if they swallow the water or it touches their skin. So, no splashing. Just photos, sniffing plants, and a trip back to the camper.
Tomorrow, if the weather cooperates, more Highlands. But for today... forest peace and dreams of giant bones.