Day 87: Annagassan - Malahide

Beaches, a castle, and an international chat in an Irish car park.

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The night was so peaceful that I didn't even dream of sausages, and that's something that usually happens to me at least three times a week. We slept by the harbour, where there was free water, which made Daddy Edu happy because he could refill the tank without having to play Tetris with five-litre bottles.

We left a little before twelve. "So early!" you'll say. Well, you know how we are: getting up early means leaving before they close the car park. Anyway, after the first pee of the day and my two hundred and forty-seven regulation stretches, we got in the car and headed towards Ardgillan Castle. It turns out it's a beautiful place on the seashore, with views that even an English gardener would envy in their wildest dreams.

The castle, by the way, is no longer a castle of castles, but an elegant hotel with a cafeteria, where people go to drink tea while looking out the window and saying things like "delightful" or "oh, darling, what a view!". We didn't go in, but we took a long walk through the gardens and the forest that surround the castle. And when I say long, I don't mean "long for a pampered chihuahua", but really long.

We went down a path called Ladies Staircase, which sounds like the name of an old perfume, but is actually a steep staircase that goes down to the sea. They say that in the 19th century, high society ladies went down there to get some sea air without messing up their hair too much. I don't know if any of them had a dog, but I can confirm that the views are worth every step.

Down below, a quiet beach awaited us with that smell of salt and seaweed that reminds me of when Daddy Edu forgets to shower after swimming. We walked for a good while, me running in circles as if I were being chased by an army of invisible balls, and he taking photos of things that, frankly, don't move or smell: rocks, waves, distant boats...

Afterwards, back to the car and a long stop at an Applegreen service station, right next to the motorway. I say "long" without irony, because between eating something, having a coffee, reorganising the fridge and taking the opportunity to shower for free like yesterday, half the afternoon went by.

With a clean body and a reasonably full stomach, we continued the day with another stop at Donabate Beach, another beach as long as a list of camping rules. The weather was still good, and that in Ireland is a reason for celebration. So another long walk on the sand, me leaving footprints, Daddy Edu taking more photos of things that don't move, and the sun accompanying us as if it were one of the team.

Around eight in the evening, we arrived at the place where we were going to sleep: a quiet area on the coast, near Malahide. As soon as we parked, an Irish gentleman who travels in a camper van approached us and turned out to be as friendly as bread spread with butter. He gave us advice on beautiful places to see, dream beaches and routes without too many tourists.

Then a Polish couple appeared, delighted with our camper cell. They asked Daddy Edu everything: how much it weighs, how it's fixed, if it's comfortable, if I have a special place.

And as if it were rush hour for curious people, other neighbours who were there also came, each with their own story, their vehicle and their dog (or without a dog, but clearly at a disadvantage). We had a very sociable afternoon, like in a mini camper festival, all exchanging anecdotes and looking at the interiors of other people's vehicles with that mixture of healthy envy and silent admiration.

A full day, of those that don't seem especially epic, but that leave a pleasant taste, like a perfectly cooked croquette or an uninterrupted nap.

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