Day 101: Carrowen - Dunkineely

Glenveagh and Dunkineely: adventures, views, and a rest by the sea.

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We left a little late, around eleven o'clock, because Daddy Edu had been chatting with some Irish campervan neighbors. Very nice, although I didn't care much because they didn't bring out a ball or cookies. I was already looking forward to the day's adventure.

Ten minutes later we arrived at Grianán of Aileach, a circular stone fort built over a thousand years ago by the kings of Aileach. From the outside it looked like a Celtic version of a bullring, only without bulls or olés. Inside there was nothing but grass and some stairs that allowed you to climb the wall. The best thing about it was the views: mountains, sea and green fields as far as my snout could see. I went into sentinel mode, as if I were the true guardian of the kingdom.

We continued the route, first between narrow roads that looked like they were designed by a mole and then on the main road to Newmills. There we stopped at the Newmills Corn and Flax Mill, a historic mill that used the power of the river to grind grain and process flax. I stayed guarding the car, very dignified, while Daddy Edu and Uncle Joan went into the museum. When they returned, they said that they still did demonstrations with the original machinery. All that sounded good to me, although I still thought that flax was overrated compared to a good bone.

Half an hour later we arrived at Glenveagh National Park, a huge place full of mountains, lakes and supposed deer (which I could smell, although they didn't show themselves). We parked and ate in the camper. Then it was time to get to the castle, but as the bus didn't allow dogs, we had to walk the four kilometers. I was in the lead, setting the pace and enjoying the scenery: the lake on one side, green hills on the other and a silence only broken by the sound of my collar.

The castle appeared in the background as in a movie. It was a 19th-century building, with towers, battlements and the whole medieval package. It was closed on Fridays, so we could only see it from the outside, but its gardens were open and that was a spectacle: flowers, paths and hidden corners that seemed designed to lose the ball on purpose.

Daddy Edu decided to go up to the viewpoint with me, while Uncle Joan waited for us in the castle courtyard. To get there we followed the "67 steps walk". Although we didn't have to step on the old 67 steps exactly, we did have to climb quite a few, and I climbed them in a heartbeat, while Daddy Edu climbed behind, grumbling like a tired dragon. At the top, an impressive view awaited us: the shining lake, the tiny castle and the mountains stretching to the horizon. If I wore a cape, I would pose as the king of Glenveagh.

At five o'clock they started to close and it was time to retrace our steps. About an hour's walk, more calmly this time, until we got back to the car. Then we had another test: almost a hundred kilometers of winding roads. I was looking out the window, with my tongue out, as if we were on a roller coaster, while Daddy Edu drove focused and Uncle Joan acted as DJ.

Now we are in a picnic area near Dunkineely, right on the coast. It's a beautiful spot, with sea views, fresh grass and a calm that invites you to lie down without thinking about anything. Daddy Edu says it's one of the best places in Ireland so far. I agree: no noise, no strangers and a sea breeze. For me, it's like finding the ultimate dog spa.

And that's how we closed the day: between castles, steps, infinite landscapes and a luxurious rest in front of the sea.

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