Day 166:

 

Massegros Causses Gorges – Mostuéjouls

Exploring the arches and caves of the Tarn on a unique canine route.

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Waking up in a paradise like this is almost unfair: a bit of sun peeking through the trees, birdsong that makes you want to yawn, and me, stretching like a giant cat, thinking I could stay there all day. But Daddy Edu had to take care of his human logistics, so we reluctantly said goodbye to the place, although I was still sniffing every corner, remembering which bushes had the best aromas and which shade was the coolest.

First, a technical pit stop: we refuelled with LPG at the petrol station. There was water, but it was paid for, and I wasn't willing to pay even a lick, so we carried on. Heading southwest, the road snaked between mountains and valleys that smelled of forest and damp earth. We entered the Tarn valley again, and in Le Rozier, Daddy Edu found a fountain next to the road. While he filled the water tank with jerrycans, I wondered if there wasn't any to drink, because you never know when a doggy thirst might arise.

From Le Truel the most exciting part began: the road got serious. Signs warned "route très dangereuse" and "croisement difficile", forbidden for motorhomes... but, ahem, our 4x4 camper is a van with a cell, not a motorhome, so let's go. A narrow lane, very tight curves, and thank goodness we only met one car, which had to reverse a good stretch. I was jumping with excitement, sniffing every bend, wagging my tail like a helicopter, and making sure that all the bushes and rocks knew that I was there.

When we got to the top, a clearing with spectacular views and another camper with an American couple who now live in France. Daddy Edu talked with them for a while while I inspected every stone and branch, marking territory with my imaginary footprint of a professional explorer. They left, and we ate quietly in the camper.

Then came the part I like best: putting on our explorer boots (well, Daddy puts them on, I just do little jumps) and starting the Randonnée des Arcs. The trail is a natural wonder: arches and caves carved over thousands of years by the erosion of water and wind in the limestone rock. Some arches look like giant stone bridges, others caves barely let the light through, and I feel like a real explorer when I run underneath, sniffing every corner and peering with my nose into every hole. The circular route is just over five kilometres, through fresh forests and sunny clearings. Sometimes the path gets a little mischievous: roots, fallen trunks and narrow paths that have to be dodged or jumped over, but for me that's a canine obstacle course that I enjoy a lot. We didn't see anyone else, so I could run around, sniff around and mark imaginary territory without interruption, while Daddy Edu took selfies, photos and videos trying to capture the magic of the arches and caves that look like they came out of a fairy tale.

After more than two hours, back to the car. It was almost six o'clock, time to look for a place to sleep. You can't spend the night up there: private land, and I don't want any doggy legal problems. We went down the narrow road again, passed Le Truel and Le Rozier, and finally found a wonderful place next to the Tarn river. Dirt track, soft grass, trees around... and the best thing: we're alone. Not a soul, except the fish and the birds, who were already greeting me like old friends. Here you can sleep peacefully, without noise or kamikaze acorns falling from the sky, and with the murmur of the river as a lullaby.

So, another night, me and Daddy Edu in our camper, surrounded by nature, with the road behind and the river in front, ready to dream of new arches, adventures and aromas to discover. I can safely say that today has been a perfect explorer's day, and tomorrow... the adventure will surely call us again.

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