Day 188:

 

Borja – Tranquera Reservoir

Wind, fog, a pretty city and delicious comfort food

Geluidsbestand
228

Despite the wind and cold last night, we slept surprisingly well. We only woke up a couple of times because Daddy Edu had to turn on the heating for a while. Our heating is very efficient, so much so that at its lowest setting it turns the camper into a tropical sauna, so Edu plays all night turning it on and off while I supervise from my bed with an expert look on thermodynamics.

In the morning, the fog greeted us. The kind of thick fog that erases the world and doesn't invite you to stick a foot outside at all. So we took it easy, without rushing or heroics. We started up calmly and left after midday. In just half an hour by car we arrived in Tarazona and parked for free very close to the cathedral, which I already liked from the first moment.

Tarazona is a small but very beautiful city, with that Italian air that Edu talks about and that I translate as narrow streets, characterful facades and many interesting corners to sniff. We walked around and the first thing we saw was the cathedral of Santa María de la Huerta, a jewel that mixes Gothic and Mudéjar in a very elegant way. It's a different cathedral, with lots of brick, ceramics and details you don't expect, and it's also set in the city as if it had always known exactly where to place itself.

We continued along Calle Mayor, full of hanging houses and warm colours, passed through Plaza de España, which is small but very lively, and reached the Archbishop's Palace, which is imposing without having to raise its voice. Tarazona doesn't overwhelm, it lets itself be loved. It's pleasant, manageable and has that historical touch without being heavy. In just over an hour we saw it calmly and were left wanting to return another day without the cold.

Afterwards we went back to the car and drove up towards the Moncayo Natural Park, a very special mountainous massif that rises abruptly over the landscape and is famous for its biodiversity, its forests and for being the highest peak in the Iberian system. Up there the cold was serious, the kind that gets into your whiskers without asking permission.

We parked next to an abandoned sanatorium in the middle of the forest, the old Agramonte sanatorium, built at the beginning of the twentieth century to treat respiratory diseases taking advantage of the pure air of the area. Today it is abandoned and the group of buildings, surrounded by trees and silence, gives quite a scare. We saw them from the outside, big, grey and silent. We didn't go in... well, I did once, but that's between the sanatorium and my memories. It's an unsettling, fascinating and very photogenic place, although with that cold we decided not to extend the visit.

We went back down and continued by car, going around the Moncayo which was on our left, always watching us from above. We looked at a possible place to sleep next to the Monteagudo de las Vicarías reservoir. In summer it must be beautiful, for sure, but today it was cold, windy and so inhospitable that even I didn't think it was a good idea. So we went on a little further, getting closer to where we want to go tomorrow, which is the Piedra Monastery.

At night we found a cool place to sleep at the La Tancuera reservoir viewpoint. We hid in a corner between trees, well protected from the wind, like good animals with a motorhome. Here we are now. Before sleeping we ate and had dinner in the camper, warm and quiet, with the day already spent and the feeling of having fitted many different pieces together in a single day.

Borja (Sanctuary of Mercy)
Tarazona
Moncayo Natural Park
La Tranquera Reservoir

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