After a leisurely breakfast, with the body already in functional dog mode, we did the glamorous part of camper life: taking on clean water, getting rid of the grey water, and leaving the car park as if we'd never been there. With everything in order, we went to explore Medinaceli.

Medinaceli is one of those villages that doesn't need an introduction; it's on all the lists of the most beautiful villages in Spain, and it's not just for show. It's at the very top, dominating the landscape, with a serious air, ancient stones, and that feeling of an important place, even though it's quiet today. We entered on foot and the first thing we saw was its most famous jewel, the Roman Arch of Medinaceli, the only one in Spain with three arches and still standing after almost two thousand years. I passed under it with respect, you never know if the Romans accepted dogs off the lead.

We continued towards the centre and arrived at the Plaza Mayor, spacious, elegant and very Castilian, surrounded by noble houses and palaces that look at you as if to say, "Things have happened here, mate." From there we moved through narrow, cobbled streets, with sober facades, coats of arms on the walls and large doors that seem never to have been completely closed. We saw the Collegiate Church of Santa María de la Asunción, huge and solemn, built on an old Romanesque church, and also Roman remains scattered around the village, like a mosaic that reminds us that this was an important city long before Edu learned to drive.

We also approached the Arab ice house, a curious construction that was used to store snow and ice for centuries, because even before refrigerators, there were people thinking long term. I wondered if there had ever been frozen bones there, but I found no conclusive evidence.

We left the village by car with the idea of going up to the castle, the old Alcazaba, but as we approached, we looked at each other and without saying anything we thought the same thing. Another castle right now didn't excite us too much, we'd had a good run of towers and walls, so we left it. We also passed by the hermitage of Humilladero, small and discreet, more of a passing visit than a long visit.

We continued our route and stopped at a rural car park near La Cabrera. Spectacular day, good sunshine and zero curious glances, so Daddy Edu had an outdoor shower as if that were the most normal thing in the world. I kept watch, of course, with professionalism and a security chief's gaze.

Later we set off for Sigüenza. We parked in the motorhome area and, before settling in, we took a quick walk through the village, a kind of pre-exploration to whet our appetites. Streets with a slope, medieval atmosphere and the promise of interesting things for tomorrow. We returned to the area and that's where the problem came. It was huge, paved, open and without charm, like sleeping in a giant school playground. We looked at each other again and decided not to.

We drove up to the cemetery area and took a walk through the surrounding pine forest. Quiet, beautiful, but sleeping with the dead so close, even if they're very polite, gave us the creeps. So, off we went again, already at night, heading for a picnic area that looked welcoming on Park4night.

The nocturnal reality was something else. Tall weeds, fallen tree trunks, the information panel on the ground and a fountain that cried for help. By day it might have its charm, but at that hour it was more like the setting for a strange film. Even so, tired and with little desire to keep searching, we decided to stay. We parked, closed the curtains and here we are staying to sleep, with that feeling of a slightly unsettling place but peaceful enough for an experienced dog to close one eye... and then the other.