We started off at a leisurely pace, packing up bit by bit and letting the day begin at its own rhythm. From the lake, we set off towards Amasya, about ninety kilometres that pass quickly here in Turkey because the roads seem designed for the car to practically drive itself.

Upon reaching Amasya, we didn't head into the city just yet. First, we drove up towards the castle area and parked right below the walls. The humans paid the entrance fee and, to my pleasant surprise, I was allowed in too. So off the three of us went to explore the castle.

Amasya Castle has been watching over the city from above for centuries, clinging to the mountain as if it had grown directly out of the rock. Romans, Byzantines, Seljuks, and Ottomans have all passed through here, because the site had exactly what everyone wanted in ancient times: great views and absolute control of the entire valley. And the views remain the star of the show.

From the top, you can see all of Amasya spread out along the Yeşilırmak River, nestled between mountains and crossed by the water as if someone had designed the city for a postcard. The white houses of the old town, the bridges, the mosques, and the river glistening below make the climb well worth it, even if you have little paws like mine.

After wandering around the castle and taking enough photos to feed the internet for a while, we headed back down to the camper and had a quiet lunch before entering the city.

Then, yes, it was time to properly explore Amasya. We parked by the river and set out on foot. To be honest, the city really surprised us. It has a calm, relaxed atmosphere, without that constant pressure of cars and noise found in other large Turkish cities. The river brings it to life and also separates the modern part from the old town quite well, which is the truly special part.

The restored Ottoman houses along the water are wonderful. Walking around there is one of those moments where no one is in much of a rush, and even I could walk without having to dodge motorbikes every ten seconds.

Amasya also has a lot of history behind it. It still preserves the famous tombs carved into the rock by the ancient Pontic kings, visible on the hillside above the city. Centuries later, it was also important to the Ottomans, because many princes were educated here before becoming sultans. Basically, Amasya has been watching important people go by for a very long time.

What also caught our attention were the Turkish flags and the giant banners with Atatürk’s face everywhere. Tomorrow is a national holiday in Turkey, and you can really feel it in the air.

Mustafa Kemal Atatürk is still a massive figure here. He was the founder of modern Turkey after the fall of the Ottoman Empire, and even today his image is present absolutely everywhere. Not as a distant historical figure, but almost as someone permanently present in the life of the country.

Tomorrow’s holiday, the 23rd of April, is National Sovereignty and Children's Day, a very important date as it commemorates the creation of the first Turkish parliament in 1920 during the war of independence. Atatürk also dedicated the day to children, so it’s a mix of patriotism, celebrations, and children’s activities all over the country.

After our walk, we returned to the camper and parked it in front of a hammam because Daddy Edu and Uncle Joan wanted to try the full experience. The men at the hammam even said I could come in and wait in the entrance, but honestly… looking at the scene, I thought it best to just stay and watch the camper.

They went in and signed up for the full programme: steam sauna, scrubbing, and massage. A traditional Turkish hammam is basically a mix of deep cleaning, friendly torture, and the final sensation of being reborn as a new person. First, you sweat like a roast chicken in the hot marble rooms, then comes the scrubbing, where they basically sand your skin down as if you were an antique piece of furniture, and then the massage.

And apparently, the massage was… intense. Very intense. Uncle Joan came out delighted but physically dismantled, and Daddy Edu was still saying hours later that his feet and parts of his body he probably didn't remember having before the massage were aching.

When they came out, it was pitch black. We then drove back up towards the castle area and found a rather hidden track that wasn't in very good condition. We drove up slowly, dodging potholes and rocks, and eventually, a pretty good spot to sleep appeared, with views and peace and quiet. Well… peace and quiet and rubbish. Because that seems to come included in almost every beautiful corner here.

But apart from that, the place is great. And we’re going to spend the night up here, looking at the lights of Amasya from the mountain while I officially stand guard… although I’ll probably be the first to fall asleep.