Día 73:

 

Lochinver - Clar Loch Beag

Top, deer, and chat... until the midges arrived.

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🎒⛰️ Subida a Stac Pollaidh 🐾 Vistas, ciervos y patas cansadas
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Geluidsbestand
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We left the Lochinver car park at about half past eleven, after an uneventful but quiet night. Daddy Edu headed south on roads that looked like they were made by a drunk snake: a single lane, passing places every few metres, impossible bends and sheep with a suicidal vocation. Twenty-five kilometres that took us three-quarters of an hour.

The destination: the Stac Pollaidh car park. Or as I call it, the official shoe scraper of the day. We paid six pounds for the car. If we had come with a house on our backs, i.e. in a motorhome, they would have charged us eight. Thank goodness the mobile shack is compact.

The path is circular, with only a small part that repeats. We climbed from about seventy metres to over five hundred. An hour or so, more for the photos and the snorts than for the terrain itself. Because, hey, the path isn't torture: well marked, firm, with stone steps even. Okay, yes, there's a hill that makes you question your life decisions, but nothing dramatic. We met people, but for the number of cars in the car park it wasn't a pilgrimage. There were even small children doing the route. Very brave. Or unconscious. Or blackmailed with ice cream, who knows.

The summit... phew. What views. Panoramas that make you stare for a long time with a poster face, looking everywhere, even if you don't know exactly what you're looking at. Lakes, mountains, clouds putting on a show... a spectacle. I sniffed every stone as if someone had hidden a secret up there.

The descent was faster. And in the middle of the descent, bam: four deer with horns like satellite dishes crossing in front of us. We stopped dead. I stared at them, they at me, but there was no confrontation. I suppose they knew that today was not a day for battles.

We ate in the camper and had a good nap. Then, Daddy Edu said we were going to see something called Knockan Crag. What is it? Well, a very important geological site. Apparently, here the old rocks are on top of the young ones, and humans got very nervous about that and turned it into an attraction. There are explanatory signs, stone sculptures and even a short route with amazing views. But we didn't even have time to explore.

Because just as we parked, a man approached us and said that he had seen us arrive. It was Len, from Malaga, with his wife May. They had recognised us by our car. It's not that we go dressed as clowns, but the campervan attracts attention. They were parked with their motorhome the size of a transatlantic. And with them, another couple: Douglas and Janice, from Gibraltar. It turns out that last night they saw us too, when we were looking for a place to sleep. The only flat place was already occupied by their mothership.

We took out the chairs, they took out the whisky, Daddy Edu a Coca-Cola, and we set up an international terrace of the most friendly kind. Laughter, anecdotes, and conversations that start talking about the weather and end up solving the world. But of course, it was almost half past seven and the midges decided that it was their turn. In a matter of minutes we were surrounded by a cloud so dense that I thought it was going to take off. Neither "Skin so Soft" nor "Smidge", which is the mosquito repellent they use around here, managed to stop the attack.

Everyone retreated to their caravans. We, who didn't want to pay ten pounds to sleep in that car park, did what we do best: flee. We drove less than a mile until we found a half-abandoned gravel road, and there, next to some bushes and with open views, we parked. Wonderful place. Quiet, beautiful and, by some miracle, without midges. Daddy Edu showered in the open air like a champion, without spectators. Or so he thought. Because just afterwards two more campers arrived and settled a hundred metres away. Thank goodness Edu had already put away the towel.

Now we are here, breathing fresh air, without mosquitoes and with the feeling of having had a perfect day: mountains, views, new friends and a shower without rushing. If it weren't because I still don't understand what exactly there is to see at Knockan Crag... it would be perfect.

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